Jeff Neilson

Tell us about yourself!

I’m a geographer at the University of Sydney

Where does your interest in Indonesia stem from?

I learnt the language at high school as part of the Hawke-Keating era push to get Asian languages into our schools and universities. In class, we watched the Ring of Fire series by the Blair brothers and this was a real turning point for me. It opened my teenage mind to a world of potential adventure that was so close to Australia, and yet felt so different and exciting. I started travelling across the islands myself as soon as I could.

What is the nature of your engagement with Indonesia – are you an academic, a professional, an alumni…

I’m an academic and have been involved in research across most of the islands, but have recently worked on Sumatra and Sulawesi. I supervise research students from Indonesia, which is a really satisfying part of my engagement. Since 2011, I have also taken around 180 students from Australia to Indonesia under various field school programs and helped a smaller number undertake 8-month immersion programs at the University of Indonesia.

Have you ever been to an Indonesia Council Open Conference and if so, what is your fondest memory?

I have. I love the opportunity to attend sessions outside my direct research interests (on agrarian change and environmental governance) and to get a snapshot of different cultural, social and political developments from across Indonesia.

What are some of the challenges and opportunities in the Indonesia-Australia relationship?

From the Australian perspective, a key challenge is coming to terms with a changing Indonesia and realising that Indonesia is fast becoming far more economically and geopolitically important than it was in the past, and we need to recalibrate our attitude to recognise this. Meanwhile, Australia needs to convince Indonesia that we are a partner of choice when it comes to technology, education and sustainability. Obviously there are huge opportunities to better cultivate these synergies.

Tell us about your favourite Indonesian food experience

There are many, but a durian feast with a group of Dayak Siang in Central Kalimantan stands out. Transport costs can be high in the upper Barito river, so there is a local glut during the durian season. I recall sitting around a communal hall with 30 or so locals, and each of us gorged on maybe 2 or 3 excellent durian each. Very satisfying.

What’s your favourite Indonesian food and why?

Probably ikan woku (a Menadonese fish soup best made with grouper – sustainably caught of course). I think it’s the candlenut that gives this dish a unique flavour. Then again, a black pepper crab (mud crab cooked with Javanese long pepper) is also pretty darn good.

What’s your favourite Indonesian music/song/writer?

I think Eka Kurniawan. The magic realism of Cantik Itu Luka set within a broad historical context was fantastic. Lelaki Harimau, using a similar style, is also great.

What is your best (read: worst) Indonesia transport story?

[Last month’s PAY IT FORWARD question]:

It was 1993, and we were trying to get to Bukittinggi from Singapore and had heard (probably by way of Bill Dalton) that it was possible to get on a cargo boat up the Siak River to Pekanbaru and then a bus over the mountains. We first got a ferry over to Tanjung Pinang on Pulau Bintan (I can think of few other places in Indonesia that have been so thoroughly transformed in the past 30 years!). In Tanjung Pinang, it started somewhat ominously when we had to get rowed out through a throng of sampan to reach the cargo boat anchored in the harbour. We were told that it might take 24 hours to reach Pekanbaru, so we were prepared and brought provisions with us. However, it took almost the whole day just for the cargo to be loaded and our food was depleted before we even left the harbour. We set ourselves up on the top deck under a makeshift batik canopy protecting us from the sun. Once we got going, sleeping on timber pallets was bearable, and the views along the river were fantastic. However, things became more difficult the next day when it started to rain and we were forced into the even more cramped quarters below deck that seemed to reek of diesel fumes. At any rate, I think it took us five days in total before we were sitting atop a bendi under the jam gadang.

?PAY IT FORWARD: Finally, it’s YOUR turn to ask a question…  Please suggest a question we can ask our next member!

What is your favourite holiday spot in Indonesia?